Once a year.

“Debbie, talk to me about latkes,” I requested.

I grew up celebrating Christmas and as I recently set out to film a video for this latke recipe I wanted to hear the experience of someone who grew up with them, and had family memories and tradition attached to them.

Debbie told me she remembers her mother and grandmothers making them each year for Hanukkah and the house smelling of frying oil. She said while potato and onion is traditional you can make latkes with just about anything - sweet potato, leek and potato - but she said potato and onion is still the favorite for all of the kids. Most importantly she said never, ever, ever buy pre-made ones from the freezer section.

Debbie also told me that even though latkes are delicious and loved by everyone they would only make them this one time each year. That got me thinking.

My family celebrates Wigilia each year, the Polish Christmas Eve. The table is filled with potatoes and cabbage, other potatoes and cabbage, and fish, potatoes and cabbage. And pierogis. These Polish dumplings filled with (ready for it?) potatoes and cabbage are the shining star of the meal. To this day we gather as a family to make them each year. But just for this meal. We never ate them any other time.

Finally, a few years ago, I took matters into my own hands and started making pierogi at other times, filling them with pumpkin in the fall and potatoes and blue cheese with a Buffalo sauce for the Super Bowl.

After making these lakes, I suspect you might do the same. They would be delicious as the base for an hors d’eouvre with smoked salmon, crème fraîche and capers, or sit atop a salad in the tradition of fried goat cheese. Or you may serve them traditionally, topped with sour cream and apple sauce. However and whenever you enjoy your latkes remember, always, always make them homemade. Debbie said so.

Note to my parents: Hanukkah food also includes jelly-filled donuts. Seriously, we’re going to need to talk about this cabbage and potato thing.

Turnip Latkes

Serves 6-8

Latkes are crispy, fried, shredded potato pancakes served during Hannukah. They are traditionally topped with applesauce and sour cream. Having reservations about turnips? Don’t, turnips are like potatoes with an extra punch of flavor, and these latkes are so delicious that you’ll be serving them all the time alongside a braised pot roast, topped with smoked salmon, dill and capers, or used as crispy, creamy, hot croutons atop a Caesar salad.

Ingredients:

• 2 large turnips

• 3 large Russet potatoes

• 1 medium onion

• 2 eggs, lightly beaten

• 1/4 cup flour or potato starch (see tip below)

• 2 cups vegetable oil

• 1 cup extra virgin olive oil

Directions:

• Grate turnip and potatoes in the large holes a box grater or using the grater attachment on a food processor, combining both into a bowl of cold water to cover.

• Grate onion into a separate large bowl. Crack in two eggs and lightly beat with a fork, combining with the onion.

• Drain potato and turnip in a colander. Wrap grated potato and turnip in a kitchen towel. Twist over a small bowl, squeezing out as much water as possible. Add to onion and stir to combine. Stir in potato starch and season with salt and pepper.

• Warm oil in a heavy bottomed skillet, like cast iron, over medium heat. Warm until a fat thermometer reads 350F, or the handle of a wooden spoon, inserted in the oil, begins to form tiny bubbles after a few seconds.

• Add latkes to the oil in ¼ cup mounds leaving about 2” between. Flatten into 1” thick cakes using a spatula. Cook until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook until golden brown on the other side, about 3 minutes longer. Remove to a cooling rack set over a sheet pan to catch any extra oil. Let oil return to 350F, about 1 minute, and repeat with remaining latke mixture.

• Serve as quickly as possible or keep warm in the oven, still on the cooling rack so the bottoms don’t get soggy.

TIP: Sound greasy? Foods fried at the right temperature seal in moisture and seal out most of the oil, absorbing about the same amount as sautéing.

TIP: Worried about frying in olive oil? Good quality olive oils have a smoke point above 400F. Most frying is done at a temperature around 350F.