The hallmarks of greatness.
Photography by Sam Armocido
“Mom,” I texted, “would you please send me your recipe for sweet and sour pork chops?”
“Will try,” she replied. “Not sure what condition it’s in.”
Four hours later, three photos arrived, each a yellowed sheets of paper, splattered with more than 40 years of food, the hallmarks of a good recipe. The top of the first page reads, “McCall’s 1969.”
Mom's sweet and sour pork chops. This is the recipe that defines sweet and sour pork for me. Far from small scraps of pork hidden in thick, doughy breading, choked in a gelatinous blend of corn syrup and Red Dye #40, Mom’s recipe is a simple but elegant balance of vinegar and brown sugar, tied together by sweet, acidic pineapple. Earthy soy and the underlying bitterness of green pepper ground the dish, whose flavors are mellowed and bound by rich pork.
Jason puts up with me…sometimes.
A online scan of 15 sweet and sour pork chop recipes revealed few changes from McCall’s 1969 masterpiece. I dove in, eliminating bottled ketchup and canned stock. Mild, sweet, white balsamic vinegar and light Temari soy sauce let thick, porterhouse pork chops, fresh pineapple and vegetables shine through. Corn starch gently thickens the sauce.
It’s a good recipe. Really good. The kind you want to print out and start splattering with food. It should be nicely yellowed in 40 years or so.
Sweet And Sour Pork Chops
Serves 4
Sweet and tart, fresh and bright, this recipe takes advantage of the sugar in peak season pineapple eschewing corn syrup, food coloring and citric acid for the complex tartness of white balsamic vinegar and less caramelly and rich Temari soy sauce.
Photography by Sam Armocido
Ingredients:
4 porterhouse or loin pork chops, about 1″ thick and bone-in
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup white balsamic vinegar*
1/4 cup cup Tamari soy sauce
1/2 cup chicken stock
1 tbs peanut oil or vegetable oil
1/2 large red onion cut in 1” chunks
1 red pepper cut in 1” chunks
1 green pepper cut in 1” chunks
1/2 pineapple cut in 1” chunks
1” ginger, peeled and minced
1 tbs corn starch
This can vary in acidity. If you need a little more bite add a splash of apple cider vinegar or substitute with rice vinegar.
Photography by Sam Armocido
Directions:
Pat pork chops dry with paper towels. Season both sides with salt and pepper.
Whisk together brown sugar, vinegar, soy sauce and chicken stock. Reserve.
Heat oil in a large sauté pan over med-high heat. Brown pork chops, about 3 minutes per side. Reserve pork chops. Return pan to medium heat and add onions. Cook 2 minutes until softened. Add red and green peppers and cook 2 minutes longer. Add pineapple and ginger. Cook an additional two minutes.
Return pork chops to pan, along with any liquid that has accumulated on the plate, nestling them in the vegetables. Add the sauce and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 30 minutes being careful not to let liquid come above a slow simmer which will make the pork tough.
Remove pork chops and vegetables with a slotted spoon. Whisk together corn starch with 2 tbs warm water. Add to pan and cook, on med-high, stirring, until sauce thickens. Serve over pork chops, pineapple and vegetables.
