The world’s ugliest vegetable.

Celery root may be the world’s ugliest vegetable, with one end a messy tangle of roots and dirt. The root end is the bottom, while the knob on top grows a bitter relative of the familiar celery you fill with cream cheese for snacking. 

Photography by Matt Hocking

To prepare it for cooking, take a thick slice off the root end. This is painful for thrifty New Englanders who hope against hope that they can clean around the nubby roots with a peeler or pairing knife. These are the same people who take the hard brown dots off a thinly peeled pineapple using a grapefruit spoon. They are either deeply committed or have a lot of free time. (I love you Mom!)

Once you cut off the root end, peel the brown-grey skin revealing the white, starchy interior. Celery root is great roasted, or boiled and mashed with potatoes. The outer ugly duckling truly reveals a beautiful, and delicious, swan inside.

Celery Root Slaw with Poppy Seed Dressing

Serves 8

Celery root, the ugliest vegetable in the world, reveals delicious, creamy white flesh when peeled. Eaten raw it delivers a light celery taste. It’s enhanced by this earthy, honey-sweetened dressing thickened with grated onion rather than rich mayonnaise.

For dressing:

• 3 tbs finely grated onion

• 1/2 tsp dry mustard

• 1/2 tsp sweet Hungarian paprika

• 1 tsp poppy seeds

• 2 tbs honey

• 1/4 cup Sherry vinegar

• 1/2 cup vegetable or other neutral flavored oil, like grape seed

For salad:

• 4 cups grated celery root

• 2-3 tbs chopped fennel fronds or tarragon

Directions:

• Begin dressing: Whisk together onion, mustard, paprika, poppy seeds, honey, vinegar and a pinch of salt and pepper. Set aside.

• Toss together celery root and fennel fronds or tarragon in a medium bowl.

• Finish dressing: While whisking, drizzle oil into vinegar mixture. This will form a creamy emulsion.

• Season to taste with salt and pepper. Adjust vinegar and honey to achieve desired balance of sweetness and acidity.

• Toss salad with 3/4 of the dressing to start. Add more to taste. The celery root is distinct, but mild, and you don’t want to cover up the flavor. Let rest for thirty minutes before serving.

TIP: Many root vegetables turn brown when peeled, requiring a dunk in water mixed with vinegar or lemon juice to keep their color. Celery root holds up just fine in this recipe so don’t bother with the extra step.