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The pumpkin whisperer. 1

Good food starts with good ingredients. Like “haste makes waste” and the Lord’s prayer, this simple truism about food is fixed in our minds, but its meaning is rarely considered. So is the fact that the best recipes begin with thoughtful consideration of the ingredients we use. Galeux d’Eysines is […]


Serendipity is unpronounceable in German.

Serendipity occurred Saturday night in a German restaurant. Dipping a bite of weisswurst in mustard, I immediately recognized the same sharp, bitter taste I had battled working with turnips, two nights earlier. Cookbook after cookbook, recommended heavy cream or rich caramelization to balance the flavor. Our test kitchen feedback on […]


What I haven’t cooked yet. 3

Two weeks ago, Dave and Valerie from Sunnyside Farm gave me a Cinderella pumpkin, saying, “We bet you haven’t cooked this yet.” They were right. I’ve cooked Blue Hubbards, warty Peanut pumpkins and dark-green, lumpy, Italian Marina de Chioggia. But I had never cooked a Cinderella pumpkin. The first thing […]


Looks weird, hard to pronounce, but tastes awesome!

You can’t help but look at a Galeux d’Eysines pumpkin. Pronounced “Gal-OH deh-ZINE,” its pale orange skin ranges from speckled to covered with peanut-shaped growths. It is a novelty and looks beautiful paired with the Ghost and Cinderella pumpkins that Martha Stewart has brought great popularity to, and, it turns […]