I am often asked how I come up with the recipes I cook at Eastern Market and publish in this blog. They all start with inspiration – or desperation – figuring out how to feature a seasonal ingredient or use a new product from one of the great shops I work with.
Sometimes it’s easy. I’ll pull a recipe out of my head that I’ve cooked many times, like asparagus soup or zucchini pancakes. Along the way, these recipes get tweaked with new ingredients and new ideas I’ve learned elsewhere.
Other times an idea pops into my head, like last week’s Indian style peas and corn. I’ll flip through cookbooks and search the web to understand the range of ingredients, seasonings and techniques that other people have used, then pull together the ideas that sound the best and start testing the recipe, making changes until I’ve got something I’m proud to serve.
The hardest recipes, and some of my greatest satisfaction, come when I’m stumped. This past week I wanted to work with summer squash. The Saturday before I had sautéed it, tossed with a compound butter. Rather then another variation on sautéed and tossed with herbs, I wanted something really new. I began flipping through cookbooks waiting for a recipe to excite me. I found a squash goulash, 70’s style with ground beef, green peppers and sweet paprika. I removed the beef so the squash could take center stage. Red peppers kept some bitterness without the bite. Red miso and tomato paste added depth, while Spanish paprika or pimentón, brought a bit of heat. Some fresh vegetable stock gave the sauce another layer and I was ready to serve this week’s Summer Squash Goulash. My sincere thanks to Too Many Tomatoes, and my Mom who raised us on its recipes, for the inspiration.
Summer Squash Goulash
Makes 3-4 main course servings unless you eat it at 10:30 at night, in which case two of you will be fighting over the last bowl.
- 2 tbs olive oil
- 1 large onion, diced
- 2 cloves garlic
- 2 cups thinly sliced crimini mushrooms
- 1 red pepper, diced
- 2 tbs sweet paprika
- 2 tbs tomato paste
- 2 tbs red miso paste
- 2 tomatoes, seeded and diced
- 1 1/2 cups vegetable or chicken stock
- 2 cups summer squash, thinly sliced in half rounds
- 1/4 cup chopped basil
- Sherry vinegar
- In a sauté pan over medium heat, cook onion in olive oil until softened. Add garlic and cook 30 seconds until fragrant.
- Add mushrooms and cook until lightly browned on edges.
- Add pepper, paprika, tomato paste and miso. Cook 1-2 minutes until paprika is fragrant.
- Stir in tomatoes and cook until softened and water begins to evaporate. Add stock and scrape up any brown bits from the bottom of the pan.
- Add squash and basil. Cover and cook until squash is softened but still firm.
- Uncover and let thicken to desired consistency. Season to taste with salt, pepper and vinegar.