Monthly Archives: October 2012


The pumpkin whisperer. 1

Good food starts with good ingredients. Like “haste makes waste” and the Lord’s prayer, this simple truism about food is fixed in our minds, but its meaning is rarely considered. So is the fact that the best recipes begin with thoughtful consideration of the ingredients we use. Galeux d’Eysines is […]


The best freakin’ cheese sauce ever! 2

The day I moved in with my grad-school roommates, we discovered a butter compartment in the refrigerator door. Young and foolish, I complained, “why do they still put these in? Who still uses butter?”*  My roommate replied, “It’s the perfect place to store your Velveeta.” Nodding, while grinding my back […]


Serendipity is unpronounceable in German.

Serendipity occurred Saturday night in a German restaurant. Dipping a bite of weisswurst in mustard, I immediately recognized the same sharp, bitter taste I had battled working with turnips, two nights earlier. Cookbook after cookbook, recommended heavy cream or rich caramelization to balance the flavor. Our test kitchen feedback on […]